News Letter

Hello,
Greetings from SUNJIN BEAUTY SCIENCE.

Are you facing challenges in developing slim lipstick formulations that deliver a smooth, velvety finish while maintaining excellent structural stability and vibrant color payoff?

In many cases, increasing the levels of oils, pigments, and waxes to enhance color intensity and adhesion can make the formula feel heavy, often leading to dragging or balling during application. On the other hand, reducing wax content to achieve a softer, silkier sensory profile may compromise stick strength and structural integrity, resulting in deformation, breakage, or product collapse.

Achieving the right balance among sensory performance, color payoff, and structural stability remains one of the key formulation challenges in lipstick development.

SUNSIL-50UH addresses these technical challenges by providing microstructure-enhancing support that enables the "Velvet Glide Lipstick" formulation concept—delivering a luxurious velvety feel, smooth glide, and robust stick strength, all within a slim stick format.

[Velvety] Velvet Glide Lipstick

What is Velvety?

Velvety is a lipstick formulation concept designed to deliver both a smooth velvet finish and vivid color payoff, while providing a comfortable, lightweight feel on the lips without stickiness or heaviness.

• Silky Glide Texture Glides effortlessly across the lips without drag, providing a smooth, lightweight, and silky application experience.
• Clear Color Pay-off Delivers rich, even color with a single swipe, ensuring vibrant and uniform coverage.
• Stable Velvet Structure Maintains a smooth and consistent application, even with repeated layering, minimizing dragging, balling, or uneven buildup.

Sunsil-50UH, Lip Stick must use this

Only 2% Makes the Difference: The Impact of SUNSIL-50UH

As the key ingredient behind the Velvety formulation concept, SUNSIL-50UH delivers a remarkable performance boost at just 2% loading. Compared to a control formula without SUNSIL-50UH, stick hardness increased by approximately 22%, while maintaining the smooth, luxurious sensory profile characteristic of a velvet-finish lipstick.
In addition, SUNSIL-50UH promotes more uniform pigment distribution and adhesion, resulting in enhanced color payoff and a refined velvet application experience without compromising structural stability.

• Outstanding Pay-off Performance → Delivers vibrant, even color coverage with a single swipe, ensuring excellent color payoff and uniform application.
• Stronger Application Color Intensity → Provides richer, more vivid color expression with minimal application, creating greater depth and color clarity on the lips.

What is SUNSIL-50UH, the Key Ingredient?

SUNSIL-50UH is a spherical porous silica with a particle size of approximately 4 μm and an ultra-high oil absorption capacity of 3.0–3.5 cc/g. Among various silica grades, it possesses unique physical properties that combine both a small particle size and high oil absorption capacity. It is designed to provide excellent structural stability and a smooth sensory feel in makeup stick formulations.

Ultra High Oil Absorption

Grade	INCI	Particle size (㎛)	Oil Absorption (cc/g)
SUNSIL-130UH	Silica	7	3.0~3.5
SUNSIL-50UH	Silica	4	3.0~3.5

Application

• Lip Stick
• Foundation Stick
• Sun Stick
• Deodorant Stick

	Ingredients	#1	#2
A	ZINA75-AB	34.50	34.50
	SUNBOS	9.00	9.00
	Cetiol SN-1	18.85	18.85
	Cetiol CC	7.00	7.00
	SFGEL-S	0.50	0.50
	Span 83	0.50	0.50
	Tocopherol	0.05	0.05
	MLB	1.00	1.00
B	SUNSIL-130UH	--	3.00
	SUNPU-170	5.50	5.50
C	PERFORMA SW-88 Synthetic Wax	5.50	5.50
	PERFORMA SW-84 Synthetic Wax	5.50	5.50
	Ceresin #810	3.50	3.50
	Ozokerite Wax SP1020P	5.00	5.00

How Can SUNSIL-50UH Deliver Both Structural Stability and a Smooth Sensory Feel?

The key lies in the micro wax network structure created by SUNSIL-50UH.

■ WITHOUT SUNSIL-50UH
In conventional formulations composed only of waxes, coarse wax crystals form a strongly bonded and uneven structure (coarse wax crystal network). While this structure provides high rigidity, it is also more susceptible to breakage under external stress. In addition, the rough crystal structure can cause dragging or crumbling during application.

■ WITH SUNSIL-50UH
When SUNSIL-50UH is incorporated, the silica particles densely fill the spaces between coarse wax crystals, creating a finer and more uniform wax network. The spherical silica particles also reduce interparticle friction while providing stress distribution and slip within the structure, resulting in smooth glide properties.

This mechanism is similar to the “concrete effect,” where cement fills the gaps between gravel to create a stronger and more stable structure. Through this structure, the formulation can maintain excellent stability without collapse, while delivering a soft, smooth, and velvety application on the skin.

SUNJIN Silica Bead Product Portfolio

SUNJIN BEAUTY SCIENCE offers a comprehensive Silica Bead Portfolio, including SUNSIL-50UH, with a wide range of particle sizes and oil absorption properties.

These materials can be applied across various applications, from skin care formulations to makeup stick systems. Depending on the desired product concept, formulators can select the optimal silica solution to achieve the target sensory profile, structural stability, color payoff performance, and oil absorption balance.

[Technical Q&A] SUNSIL-50UH: Researchers Ask, SUNJIN Answers

Q1. What is the key technical advantage that differentiates SUNSIL-50UH from conventional silica materials?
A. The key advantage is its “smart oil control”, enabled by its ultra-high oil absorption capacity of 3.0–3.5 cc/g. By effectively retaining oils within its internal porous structure, SUNSIL-50UH addresses two traditionally conflicting formulation challenges: stability (preventing softening in slim stick systems) and sensory performance (providing smooth pay-off during application).

Q2. What is the recommended usage level?
A. A usage level of 1–3% is recommended to reinforce the structural stability of stick systems. In particular, a 2% loading, as demonstrated in SUNJIN’s guide formulation “Velvety (MB1001)”, provides an optimal balance between color payoff and stick hardness.
However, due to its ultra-high oil absorption capacity, excessive use beyond the optimal level may result in an overly matte texture or reduced spreadability. Therefore, a usage level of around 2% is generally recommended.

Q3. How should formulators choose between SUNSIL-50UH and SUNSIL-130UH, which share the same ultra-high oil absorption capacity?
A. While both products offer the same oil absorption capacity, the selection criterion is their packing density, which is determined by particle size.
For slim stick and high-color-payoff lipstick formulations, where maximizing the “concrete effect” by filling the fine gaps between wax crystals is critical, SUNSIL-50UH (4 μm) is the more suitable choice due to its smaller particle size.
On the other hand, SUNSIL-130UH is better suited for sun care and foundation formulations where a lighter and fresher application feel is desired.

The [Velvety] Velvet Glide Lipstick (MB1001) formulation, powered by SUNSIL-50UH and SUNJIN’s key ingredients, offers a new solution that goes beyond texture enhancement by simultaneously improving color payoff, pay-off performance, and structural stability.

If you would like to review the original formulation sheet featured in this newsletter, request raw material samples, or evaluate a physical lipstick sample, please feel free to contact us using the information below.